JULY IN KOKEE

Saturday 7/21/12

I got a chance to hike the Alaka’i Swamp trail with people from the Native Plant Society.  It’s a two hour drive from Princeville to the Lodge at Kokee where we were to meet.  I woke up to a crystal clear day and hit the road at 6:00am. An hour later, still clear in Lihue, I stopped to try for a shot of Waialeale.  Being the rainiest spot on earth, it isn’t visible very often.

Wai'ale'ale (wy-all-eh-all-eh)

From the Lodge we carpooled in 4WD trucks several miles on Camp 10 road to the trail head.  I hoped to be back on the North shore by 5pm so I elected to ride with Mike who said he might have to turn around early to meet another commitment that day himself. 

Po'omau Canyon

           This is a cleft of  Waimea Canyon I don't usually get to see but we met near here to start the hike.  Eleven of us started and three turned around a mile in. It turns out my ride was with one of the native plant experts; I stuck close, and we went the whole distance.

Mike De Motta, one of the founders of the Kauai Native Plant Society

This little wedge where the trails meet has been carefully cleared of all non-native plants,

a true look at the ancient forest.

With all the research I've been doing for my book it is a real pleasure to go to the source.  Kokee's  forests, wet and dry, provide a living museum.

            There were debates about Latin names and current but ever changing botanical classifications but these sidebars were welcome as I used the time to click away on the camera.

'Uki'uki and Nau Paka Kuahiwi

            The berries are native and were used to make dye, purple unless lime was added, then it was deep sea blue.  'Uki'uki is in the lily family (with the long leaves).  It is growing among the mountain nau paka that has the same half flower as the very different fleshy beach naupaka.

         This hike is known for native forest and forest birds as well as severe invasive species. It is also known for the stairs, and the boardwalk through the swamp or bog.

 The wire on the boards keeps you from slipping when they are running with water

 Great when they are in good repair

Kahili ginger & Haha'ai ka manu

            Here is a perfect example of the forest mix today.  The yellow flowers on stalks are Kahili ginger, a super-agressive invasive plant that takes over the understory choking out native plants.  In front is the endemic Haha'ai ka manu which fed the native birds (see little round yellow fruits).  The ginger smells divine unless there are so many it becomes overwhelming.  The fruit is sweet.

           After endless stairs there is a stream and once we rock hopped across we were no longer on the dry side but hit a muddy, rocky incline.  Laka is the forest goddess and when there is mist you recognize you are in her realm.  "Laka is the forest, Laka is the mist."  This may be the only legend I know in my soul and it is impossible to not be aware of her.

 This is the Alaka'i Swamp and Laka is present in every step, every breath

This is pristine montane wetland or bog

this makes it very easy to grasp the concept of "primordial soup"

           Of the half dozen times I’ve hiked the trail, only once was it clear enough at the Kilohana overlook to see Wainiha Valley directly below and the ocean and even Hanalei Bay in the distance.  This was not the day.  I didn’t care – I was there to be educated about the plants.  I was able to more or less ignore the ones I know and learn new ones – so exciting.  We had lunch at the platform and left at 1:00 right on schedule. 

That's the view!  Sorry I didn't get names.  Mike on left, me on right. 

The two youths in center back were not with us. 

            The bog track and platform are in a dismal state of rot.  We precariously came back down to the stream without incident (only once did I more or less do the splits when I stepped on a muddy root and my foot chose to follow it out from under me - no damage, no humiliation - and the mud washed out later).  Once crossed we had dry trails.

The bright green is 'uluhe (oo-loo-hay) fern

            The Sun came out again before we got back to the cars.  Looking across a valley we could see where hurricanes in 1982 and 1992 really took out a lot of big forest trees. Where the ground was exposed, 'uluhe quickly filled in. It will hold the dirt in place until larger trees grow back. 
            We had fooled around looking at plants for 3.5 hours in and marched back out in 1.5.  I stopped at a Mc Donalds in Ele’ele to wipe down, put my dress on and make it to the next engagement on time (more or less).