RESEARCH AND CONCERT AT THE GARDEN

National Tropical Botanical Garden       Research 

In March Gil and I were invited to have lunch with Chipper Wichman, CEO of National Tropical Botanical Garden with Kathy Valier and her husband David Speer.  Chipper has been in charge of NTBG for 38 years. And while we had visited the garden many times, we had never spent time in the research and administration building that includes the library. 

Juliet Rice Wichman Botanical Research Center
NTBG Headquarters Complex
3530 Papalina Road
Call (808) 332-7324, ext. 227 for viewing information


NOTE: to tour the garden go to the entry in Poipu just across from Spouting Horn

Currently there is an exhibit of 30 prints of drawings done by Joseph Banks who was the naturalist/botanist on the first of Captain James Cook’s three voyages to the Pacific.  The sketches he brought back to England in the 1770s were engraved on copper plates and forgotten.  In 1974, 200 years later, a ten year process started to make 100 sets of prints from the original plates.  NTBG has one of those sets as well as many other priceless collections.

Not only did we get to see the exhibit of 30 of them in the main library (open to the public), we got to go into the archival, climate controlled room that houses the rare book collections.  It takes three people to get in:  two people with separate keys turn locks on the door while another person punches in a key code some distance away.

Chipper showing us samples of his treasures 
We actually handled this book written in the 1100s

Joseph Banks engravings in large green portfolios at far right

Chipper gave us a synopsis of the saga of a Dutch botanist and author named Rufious that Gil and I had read about some time ago.  In the early 1700s he was not expected to live so he traveled far from home to die.  His health improved and In the process he completed an exhaustive botanical work that was ultimately lost at sea.  With benefit of a photographic memory he rewrote it and that second manuscript was burned up in a fire.  He then became blind and Rufious' son rewrote it a final time as his father dictated.  In hopes of his work getting published, they gave it to the Dutch government and he finally did die.  The government however did not want to share the knowledge with their competition – the British and Portuguese marine traders, so they hid it from the world. 
Somehow, hundreds of years later, NTBG acquired the book with the drawings and a text in both archaic Dutch and Latin; they needed a translator.  The scholar who took on the job was a great fan of Rufious and moved to Kauai for the work.  He was then diagnosed with cancer and given three months to live.  Considering the story of Rufious, he refused his own death sentence and spent the next ten years translating it.  Upon the news that Yale Press agreed to finally publish the book, he died. This was no small undertaking – the current version is six volumes!

The Ambonese Herbal Vol. 5 
New on left, version on right is archaic Dutch in one column and Latin in the other


           Following a few more stories, we toured the architectural marvel of the administration buildings.  Then Mike DeMotta took over, head of the native plant division for NTBG, our outdoor tour starting with the mist house.  (See post June 2013.)  It was great to be here again.

            A far cry from the humidity controlled room in the library, the mist house tries to recreate the ambient humidity that occurs in the island rain forests at higher elevations.

Mike DeMotta and Kathy Valier 

Mike's mist house
Kathy does weeding  and native planting at mountain tops where she is helicoptered in,
very familiar with many of these plants

            These are individually known plants, who collected the seed and where, and approximately how many are left – anywhere in the world – sometimes a handful sometimes the only ones left are right here.



            Mike was particularly excited about this one flowering for him.  Flowers mean potential seeds, seeds mean potential new plants.

 Flowering between leaves at top

Detail of the flowers

CONCERT IN THE GARDEN


            So it was pretty cool to find ourselves at the 50th anniversary of National Tropical Botanical Garden's concert just a month later.   Hawaiian slack key guitar should be heard outside, in the sun or under the trees - everyone free to wander around.


 The Legends L to R
Ledward Kaapana, Benny Chong, Nathan Aweau (standing behind)
Jerry Douglas center, Jeff Patterson behind, Mike Kaawa, Ken Emerson

Chipper Wichman thanking Kauai

 Gil & Marion
Marion surprised us with the tickets since our mutual friend was coming into town (below)


 Siglinde arrived from Santa Fe late the night before the concert 

 Orange seemed to be the color of the day!
Chipper Wichman on right, Mayor Carvahlo on left with wives between
Governor Abercrombie was also at the event

Part of the 1000 people at the concert 
Parking was easy and we were shuttled back and forth

Another part of the crowd
There were food booths, trash was recycled with a Zero Waste policy, yeah!
But we all really came for the music


Jerry Douglas playing dobro
the instrument is derived from the Hawaiian lap steel guitar 
His first performance in Kauai was met with loud approval.

Mahalo NTBG    Happy 50th !


MORE MAUI MADNESS

Maui: Mountains, Birds

March 24-26, 2014

East maui map – Kula and Haleakala summit are shown with arrows
The bar shows the road down through Makawao to Paia 

View from upcountry across the neck, bays each side
The west Maui mountains behind the clouds, Lanai far left

We have a favorite B&B we discovered last year called Kula View.  From the deck you can see the mountain and from the geometric window you can see the ocean, west Maui and Lanai beyond.  Kula is as close as you can get to Haleakala for lodging.


 View of the mountain from the deck, about a half hour to the park entrance


 Kula View offers fridge, microwave, toaster oven, coffee maker, coolers, thermoses,
 AND warm coats, sweaters, and blankets for people braving either 
sunrise or sunset on the mountain (it is cold in bright sunlight )

Comfy bed - ocean view from fun window
Call Susan Kauai at 808-878-6736 for a reservation

We checked in and headed up to the park late in the day.  Just past the gate we turn left into Hosmer Grove for some of the best endemic forest bird watching in the islands.  In fact we went to Hosmer three days in a row. 

Hosmer Grove  
We went into the shrub land rather than the forest to see who was about.

 We heard a Kalij pheasant, saw evidence of Nene which was really encouraging and 
lots of little red and green guys zooming overhead.  No photo ops.

            We walked back through the forest part of Hosmer Grove, an experimental forest planted many years ago after it was denuded of the native trees.



 Amakihi  female 4.5"
        (ah-ma-kee-hee)         

            We saw lots of action that first day but the little green birds are usually just bullets going by.  This female was very focused on nesting material, the male, not so much.  He was more interested in watching her.  This is about as still as I’ve seen one  – on a  branch for a split second. 

Amakihi male

            On the way back down we stopped at Kula Lodge for a libation. It's a sweet spot with a great view.  We had other dinner plans but the pizza here is really good, cooked in an outdoor brick oven.  

 View from our table at Kula Lodge

 The brick oven was all fired up - we'll stay for pizza next time

Sampling more from Maui Brewing, I went with Koko Brown and 
Gil stuck to his Bikini Blonde (I think he likes the name)


"Mink" protea  (pro-tee-a OR pro-tay-a)
Kula is protea country  
I stopped along the road and took this on a bush in someone's yard


            Next day we lounged and journeyed up Haleakala well after the sunrise crowd was gone.  The bicycle tours were screaming down the opposite side.  Just doesn’t look like fun.  For me it is all about the stunning views and feeling the grand scale of our world.

 From Maui to the Big Island
Mauna Kea to left, and Mauna Loa - the long gentle slope from center to right; ocean below

Not a crater 

            Often thought of as the crater, this valley is actually the original landscape eroded away. The small eruptive cones came much later and partially refilled the eroded basin with blasted cinders.  The wind and weather factors send the loose soils down through the gap.


This sketch provided by the park shows the shape of the shield volcano that 
Haleakala once was


            Hawaii Island has many international observatories and Maui looks like it is trying to catch up with it's Science City.  Resentment that the natural landscape is being altered, these buildings are called pimples by the people down below.

The Hawaiian Islands have less light pollution of anywhere in the world
Astronomers have used the top for star gazing since humans first arrived here

  
These are harsh conditions for people, hard to imagine plants and birds surviving here.   
 
Na'ena'eSilversword, lava and cinders
This is what grows at 10,000 feet
Both of these plants are in the sunflower family and evolved from the same ancestor!
   
The Haleakala Silversword - endemic and endangered
(Argyroxiphyium sandwicenses macrocephalum)



 Known for it's unique color and incredible beauty


Skeleton of a silversword flower
blossoms were purple
 It grows, matures and after it flowers, it dies




The Silversword project  


           The little pots have new starts of the plants.  We saw such carts at the summit at 10,000' and the first visitor center at 7,000.'  The red and blue tags indicate whether they get watered or only ambient moisture.      


            It is not just plants that struggle with this difficult landscape.  The little Hawaiian Petrel has found conditions so unfavorable in its original habitat on the all the islands, its last refuge is to nest at the extreme elevation of Haleakala crater where it stands a chance of not being molested by feral cats, mongoose, or rats.  And since the summit is known as the one of the world’s darkest night skies, fledging is less risky for the new guys.  However, no one knows how the cold temperatures or the elevation itself are affecting the birds.  They are endangered and rare.  Adults are returning now, nesting for them begins in March.  Hardy (human) folks can stay until after dark and hear them call ‘ua’u as they fly to their burrows hidden in the cinder walls.

'Ua'u - Hawaiian Petrel
Pterodroma sandwicenses
 Created by Ralph Trethewey in resin
see his website for other creations

            The clouds move really fast at altitude, especially across the gap down below us.  I started to take a picture of snow on top of Mauna Kea, the highest volcano on the Big Island and by the time I took my lens cap off, the valley had filled and the mountain was gone.  Moments later, Mauna Kea appeared again showing just a little snow right now.

Mauna Kea from Haleakala
Just a little snow on top

We plan to be there this September, maybe we’ll be able to see Haleakala from there.

Back to Hosmer one more time, or I should say I’iwi Land. The forest and shrubland is is filled with birdsong. This trip, though, was the first time I was so aware of their flying sound.  When you are still, the whirr of their wings is not so subtle as they zoom overhead or next to you.   They also call while they fly but they move sooo fast; the ground cover is like a big sponge so it is really difficult to figure out which direction to look when you hear them. 

 Hosmer Grove is both forest and shrubland

            Hosmer was a fellow who brought in many types of trees to experiment with for lumber production after the native trees were used up.  Why didn't they just replant 'ohia and koa and other native trees?  Reforestation was not conservation.

 Mamane (ma-ma-neh)
Sophora chrysophylla
This is a native and can grow to 40' but in Hosmer it is a shrub

The forest is full of 4-6" birds; the sounds are wonderful
It is hard to keep them in sight when they land in the canopy
Just for scale, note Gil standing center bottom

Haleakala Sandalwood blooming
(Santalum haleakalae)
There are a few native trees and plants mixed in with Hosmer's experimentals

Silver Geranium (Geraniun cuneatum tridens)
A native being outplanted by conservationists - this one seemed to be thriving

Again, just for scale, there is a little red bird in the center of left lower quadrant

None of the ohia lehua were in bloom (late this year) so food for the nectar eaters like the I’iwi is drastically limited.  They seem to relish the mamani and their curved bills expertly reach in to suck out the nectar.  They also made much use of the non-native eucalyptus trees that were flowering. They are quite the gymnasts being upside down as often as not.  They really use their feet to hold on and then wiggle their bodies into the best position – slurp, jump to new branch, slurp, jump to a new flower, slurp, you get the idea.

I'iwi (ee-ee-vee)
in the eucalyptus flowers

 I'iwi in mamane

Gil got this shot from the edge of a deep drop. 
The I'iwi took off, calling as he went (note his open beak)






The mist rolled in really thick and we decided it was time for us to go, too.

            On our last day we wound down the mountain through Makawao and had lunch in Paia – an old hippy town gone tourist.  Parking is a madhouse but lunch was great at Milagro’s.  We got to Schaefer Art Gallery again in Wailuku to see the juried show, some nice work.  I liked this ceramic piece.

  "Eddie Would Go"  
by Mary Ann Leigh

            We also made our pilgrimage to Iao Valley, such spectacular natural beauty somewhat minimized by the little state park walkways.  Humans exploited the watershed first for taro and then the cane plantations.  Four streams merge into the Iao stream and were divertedbefore flowing out into Kahalui Bay.

Iao Valley
An elderly Maui friend likes to say ee-oww!


Iao Needle 
2200' remnant of erosion

            We still had time before our flight so we took a walk on the beach above Wailuku then drove north along the coast.  There is a seabird sanctuary just past here, a rocky island right off shore called Moke’ehia.   


 Kaemi Point 

Moke’ehia Seabird Sanctuary - island just visible beyond point

            Maybe next time we’ll drive all the way around – I chickened out 30 years ago when we tried it because the dirt road was so narrow in places it was literally barely wide enough for one car, no shoulder, just ocean.  Nightmare material!  Anyway Kaemi Point was quite beautiful though we were losing our light.


ALOHA MAUI
A HUI HO