Donnelly Oceantics: LOCAL KAUAI OCT 2014

Coral, Crater Hill, Polihale, Arizona, Halloween

Anini cauliflower coral

Knowing there was a storm coming in, I hurried down to Anini just to get in the water. It was such a hot summer, the water temps actually were so high corals started to bleach out. I haven’t heard if they have been turned around now that the trades are back and temps more normal. I don’t think anything on the planet is normal anymore.

Ironically, I swam uphill against the current and further out toward the outer reef than usual. Not many fish, no exciting specimen eels, only one grass munching turtle, but I did see a few specimens of coral that were fun. Once I decided to go back in the current placed me right where I had started. Nice to get wet!

Domino damselfish or Hawaiian Dascyllus in branching cauliflower coral

Love these tiny guys that are so bold,

the biggest one here maybe as big as a quarter

Yellow cauliflower coral Pocilloporo meandrina

Same in pink

Splash of purple

Big male honu

Some very nice antlers

REFUGE WEEK

This nationwide week occurs every October and usually features special events at refuges across the country. I signed up for several locally including a hike to see the new predator proof fence installed on the ocean side of Crater Hill or Nihoku – refuge property that is not normally open to the public.

New Zealand is light years ahead of the US in terms of conservation and does not wait until wildlife populations get critically low before they step in. It is in New Zealand that these fences have been developed and improved. The one on Oahu at Kaena Point (northmost point of that island) has surpassed expectations in protecting native birds from predatory cats, dogs, mongoose, etc. that have kept ground nesting sea bird success low in the past. For the last two years, there has been discussion and research about putting such a fence on Kauai as well. Things generally move very slowly here and I was really happy to hear the fence was complete!

On the hike was the lead biologist for Kauai, Jessica Behnke. I’ve been to a number of meetings over the last two years hearing about it and here it is! It is 6.5 feet high of stainless steel mesh woven seamlessly together. The rolled top will let anything caught inside to get out but no predators can get in over the top, through the mesh, or by digging underneath.

There are already nene, albatross, and boobies that breed here on the hill. Frigatebirds roost nearby. The purpose is increase a safe haven for those birds and also create safe habitat for Newell’s Shearwaters. There were only 11 breeding pair last year and that was up from 2 pair prior to that.

Jesse and her project

Stainless steel mesh - the plate under the dirt prevents digging under

Grasses will be planted now to prevent erosion as the interior is replanted native

Crater face – home to tropic birds

Area enclosed is about 400 feet above sea level

The 600 enclosed acres on the side of the hill is amphitheater like and should enhance bird attraction devices when they are installed just in advance of breeding season for the Newell’s next year. Kauai has 90% of that bird population and they are primarily in the mountains. If they nest here, they not only will not be predated, the fledglings will not have the distracting lights of the island to confuse them.

From western edge looking east, opposite perimeter visible along tree line

We followed the fence across the top and down the other side. From there we could look back up to where we started with the knob of Crater Hill behind it.

Down and left

The corner across the way is where we started below the

knob of Crater Hill, home to hundreds of Red Footed Boobies

Lots of work still to do before the attraction begins. The area has a couple patches of native nau paka but mostly contains Christmas Berry – a nasty aggressive invasive that grows into a woody tangled mess. This has to be removed and replaced bit by bit to prevent erosion. Friendly grasses are planned for the fence line – nothing tall a critter could climb up.

On the hike out (up that steep hill) I did notice this male hala tree in bloom – the fragrant flower called hinano. Unfortunately, Hurricane Ana was looming and the the other hikes and events were all cancelled for Refuge Week including my light house tours.

Hinano

wish I could smell it from here - heavenly

POLIHALE (po-lee ha-leh)

As far as we can drive in one direction is Ke’e Beach on the north shore. If we drive the other direction past the west side towns of Waimea and Kekaha, past the Pacific Missile Range, past the wetlands of Mana, there is a turn off for Polihale State Park – one of the longest beaches in all of Hawaii that butts into a powerful mountain at start (or end) of the Na Pali. A friend decided she wanted to celebrate her birthday out there and we were eager to join.

The week before the event, Marion and I went out to check out the road – always in questionable condition. It is about 5 miles of badly rutted dirt, but passable. We just did a quick survey of Queens Pond at the near end and then the campsites along the far end.

Queen's Pond is usually a calm lagoon with a little reef protecting it from the bigger surf

Today the tide was high so there was considerable current in the shallow water

Looks pretty good to me, can't wait til next week

Marion rented a 4WD just for the occasion and off we went. There were winds from the NE that should have been stopped by mountains with a shift due the next day bringing mild trade winds. Instead, the wind had already shifted and big swells came in and continued to increase while we were there. We found a vacant hale or picnic pavilion and made our camp there out of the wind. We had a very nice meal of poke, rice, grilled chicken, cole slaw, pho noodle soup, Japanese beer and sake. Truly happy campers. Oh, yes, then the champagne and brownies.

Where the end of the road meets the Na Pali

Our "spot"

Evening light from out "spot"

Lovely evening after the wind settled down

nice soft sand to sleep on

The Hale - great for cooking and eating

Glad we didn't have to stay this far in for the night

(a couple hundred feet makes a difference)

Marion caught me cooking

She hadn't opened her champagne glasses yet

60 can be nice

the candle played Happy Birthday

When it was time to sleep, the wind had calmed enough we were able to put our sleeping bags where we had spent the whole day – a very sweet spot at the base of the mountain. I couldn’t sleep so got up and walked the beach over to the rocks and then back in time to see the moon come up in the cleavage of the two mountains above us – perfectly centered. I woke up Gil & Marion (who were enjoying their dreams by the way), they thought it was worth it but went right back to sleep. I walked the beach for another hour and then settled down.

Morning light on the waves

Love Polihale

From our hale at breakfast

moon still up

We didn't save any champagne left, made do with coffee and tea

Queen's Pond

Not very calm, with that swell it came right over the reef

Our car worked great in the sand

Happy Birthday Girl !

HALLOWEEN

Somewhere in October we had Halloween and Gil spent a week visiting his mom and a couple brothers in Arizona. He attended one party and missed the other. All good fun. I used his time away to crank away on my book - trying to wrap it up at almost four years!