CHRISTMAS EVE on MIDWAY

Saturday December 24

            We thought we were going to Eastern today but again it was called off due to winds.  Instead we were pleasantly surprised to learn that Christmas Eve would only be a half day of work. 

We are flexible and trust the group leaders to make all the logistical decisions for us

They are great: serious about the count, fair, and lots of fun

            We took another sector along the beach that would complete the area farthest from Charlie barracks.  The path all the way around the new runway and along the cart road is now familiar.  Several people have had flats, Gil lost his pedal cranks; walkie talkies are used for cart calls when rescues are needed, replacements are made - all part of the routine.

My biking skills were never good but they have improved here.  With an elevation of only about 30’ for the island I haven’t had that to worry about (except for the little hill to the Clipper House three times a day for meals).  I have traversed through both sand and gravel and around potholes and birds in the road (I call any albatross walking in the road George and frequently call out “Hi George”, “Sorry George”, “You are gorgeous George!”)  There are rules when biking together – each bike takes the same path through to disturb as few birds as possible; if you can, pass to the rear of a standing bird as he is less likely to move back than forward.  So far it has worked very well. 

We have White Terns come out and float over our heads or in front of our faces in daytime – probably more likely being territorial than curious.  At twilight and in the dark, the bounty of Bonin Petrels (our burrowing buddies) are in the air and we duck constantly as they willy nilly fly in front and back of us.  No mishaps there either.

Working our plot we come to the beach every other pass through the endless verbesina and chunks of nau paka and sea grape shrub.  There are squalls all around us but we never get doused.  

I was pretty sure we were about to get hit with heavy rain; glad to be wrong

Black Foot airing his wings

            Just finishing up we find another treasure – an adult red-tail tropic bird nesting (see chick from yesterday).  We sneak a quick shot and head for home.

The wind is kicking up the feathers on this guy's head, one red tail feather remains for now

Two new ones will come in later

Another beautiful hybrid, note lighter bill & feet

            On the ride back, Gil & I decide we will grab a quick lunch and go shopping – after all it is Christmas eve and the store is open from 1-3 on Saturday.  While we are eating we have another surprise, the winds have died and they are offering to take us across the lagoon to snorkel.  It was an easy decision, we’ll get ourselves t-shirts next week.  We hurry to grab the wetsuits we have stashed in our quarters.  We get on the boat called Awesome rather than the one we have taken to Eastern twice.  What a sweet ride, in fact it is awesome.  I gave up bringing my camera mask and it breaks my heart. 

Headed to the far side of the lagoon that is the predominent part of Midway Atoll

The two boats tied off to a buoy out here and we had 45 minutes that went too quickly

            The water is cold and the visibility was incredible.  We stayed inside the lagoon mesmerized by the coral heads and fish we know and don’t know.  The large parrot fish stay near us instead of shooting away like at home.  I came up saying it was like swimming through ice, not  because of the cold but because it felt like being inside another world altogether;  too hard to describe. 

            The ride back is outrageous and I am running out of adjectives here.  Another first today, a flock of Laysan albatross are sitting on the water and as the boat goes by, they take off one at a time and fly at our level.  Gil & I look at each other and say “Merry Christmas.”  I’m tearing up thinking of it now.

There are gifts and there are gifts!

Sand Island is on the horizon on the right

            Biking back to Charlie barracks in our wetsuits we stop at the Fish & Wildlife building (everything is open to us 24/7 except the store) to look up a couple fish we didn’t know the names of.  Then we hurry, as usual here, to eat dinner and get to the gift exchange party hosted by Fish & Wildlife.  

Our party is at the All Hands Club which was the bar for the enlisted men at one time

           It was called a white elephant exchange but that was hardly the case.  T-shirts, glass balls found on the beach and alcohol were the hot items particularly for the Thai workers.  It was hilarious with around 70 people being rowdy in two languages.  The night was topped off with Santa reading a Midway style “T’was the Night Before Christmas” that she writes a new version of each year.  Her three elves were completely toasted by now, but the cleverness of the poem brought the house down with good cheer.

Santa and two of her elves, Tall Elf and Limey Elf (from England) who is tilting the bottle

This would be Short Elf with his gift, a case of canned tuna snacks

(or so he thought until someone stole it, and it was a nice t-shirt)

This is Gil opening a lovely glass ball from the beach, it was stolen shortly after 

Merry Christmas