Donnelly Oceantics: October 2012

MOLOKAI HOE - OCTOBER 2012

MOLOKAI HOE 2012

Molokai Hoe started in 1952, a channel crossing in outrigger canoes – this one starts on Molokai and finishes on Oahu 41 miles later. Canoe racing is Hawaiian and this race is the race. To be in it is a hard won privilege, to complete it is a huge victory regardless of the finish time.

The plaques list the first place winners since 1952

Molokai

The canoes have to get to Molokai, for instance, Namolokama’s boats had been barged to Kona for the queen Lilio race in September. Then they were shipped to Molokai for the women’s channel race two weeks earlier (Na Wahine o ke Kai). They paddle them to Oahu and then they are barged back to Hale O Lono harbor to await the Molokai Hoe. Paperwork must be turned in ahead of time and then verified on Molokai the day before the race.

The guys have to get themselves there as well. The day before the race, from Kauai we flew to Oahu on the earliest flight and the team went on to Molokai on a different airline. They carried their paddles and large bags of additional gear, and all of their personal secret sport fuels (quick proteins and spooky juice for hydration).

Team shirt, 60s guys

Every canoe is required to have an escort boat (usually a fishing boat) – there were 100 canoes, 100 motor boats. The 6-man outriggers have 9 man teams for change outs. The teams are open up to the age groups at 40 and over, 50 and over, 55 and over, and 60 and over. The teams in age groups 55 and 60 are required to have 12 paddlers each and there is no 70s division. Escort boats carry the captain, usually a coach, the alternating paddlers and sometimes other guests, easily over 1200 people. Additional boats are on the water as observers in addition to official boats and media.

Molokai is a small island and getting overnight accommodations plus vehicles to get from various hotels and homes down the long dusty dirt road to Hale O Lono Harbor is no small task. Namo guys reserved their van a year ago.

These pick-up-sticks are 40 foot canoes before the 2010 race

at Hale O Lono on Molokai

Cover of Pacific Paddler magazine, Photo by Peter Caldwell

This year, Gil got a couple pics - he is usually so into the work at hand he doesn't grab a camera and this time we don't have any water shots.

Lots of work, part of paddling (Landis on left grinning)

This is Tom's personal strategy, letting the others do the work

The bay looks calm in the background

The race began at 8:00 am Sunday morning after traditional chanting and pule (prayer). There are official boats throughout the course and of course media in both boats and helicopters.

Oahu

OCHRA

The race is hosted by Oahu Hawaiian Canoe Racing Association (OHCRA).

While the guys have left Molokai, the preparation on Oahu is tremendous. The finish line is at the pier of the Waikiki Hilton Hawaiian Village Hotel with the classic rainbow tower overlooking both pier and awards tents. The Hilton kept water available as it was Honolulu hot out. The event is webcast for live streaming and a TV is set up in the tent.

The pier and finish line with Diamond Head in the background

The webcast from a boat following the front runners

medals on table in front

blaring Honolulu sun outside of the tent

Rainbow tower of Hilton

lagoon to left and bay to right

Conditions in the Kaiwi Channel

Typical conditions should make this a downwind race. The Northeast trade winds (caused by the earth’s rotation) blow between 15-30 miles an hour at the surface. The deep ocean swell also created by this rotation has the whole Pacific to build on. Hawaii is a relatively small land mass that does little to interrupt the path of the rolling sea, except where forced between the gaps between the islands, making the channels unpredictable.

When the women raced two weeks before, 10 of the canoes had trouble getting out to the start line due to a large incoming swell. Nine of them made it, one boat broken and a paddler hospitalized. Adjustments were made to cover more safety issues by the time the men went, but of course the conditions weren’t the same.

Na wahine o ke Kai - trying to get to the start their channel crossing

The two heads bottom right are in a canoe obstructed by the wave in front

in the foam at top is a severely crashing canoe

For a two minute video of this event go to: https://vimeo.com/50091662

Instead of a big swell for the guys two weeks later, the winds shifted and blew from the Southwest creating two separate factors for the seasoned paddlers. The winds brought VOG (volcanic fog) from the Big Island – sulphuric fumes that created such haze they could not even see Diamond Head, Oahu’s landmark. The winds also created a cross-swell which defeated the ability for the canoes to surf. It is surfing the waves that makes the paddle go faster with less effort. This year, every inch was hard fought.
Without the surf factor, even Shell Va’a, the professional Tahitian team that has won for seven consecutive years, posted a time 45 minutes slower than last year.

Hoe history - the six previous first place tags went to Shell Va'a

number seven will be added for 2012

Once the first canoe arrived and boats were visible on the horizon, the entertainment started: Tahitian drums then hula. Fun to watch but the downside was that the entertainment drowned out the webcast.

The professional team from Tahiti - Shell Va'a

Let the entertainment begin, first the sound of the conch then the drums

Edt second place, also from Tahiti

This was a nice gesture from nearly every team, clasping hands at the finish

Hula is a nice addition to this cultural event

Another Shell Va'a team took third place

A younger group of hula dancers, very nice

This little girl was playing with other kids until she saw the dancers and

joined in from where she was

Livestrong Hawaiian canoe team 4th place

Team Primo lining up for sprint to finish

Other boats on horizon waiting for the canoes to come through

Team Primo, another Hawaiian team takes 5th place

Spectators – it was a zoo

See koa canoe at center, a special category

Within the first hour after the first canoe finished, only 30 of the 100 arrived. I watched a while and then went down to the pier to wait for other teams to come in. Unfortunately, one of the bars had a band start up and even next to the pier I could no longer hear what was broadcast. I didn’t even hear the phone in my pocket and afraid I missed them coming in, I went back to the tent to see the board. I checked my phone for messages and when I walked away, they arrived and I missed it!

Push for finish – notice vog

The off-wind and choppy water made the going sluggish. The on-board teams and coaches altered strategy on the spot, however lots of the decisions had been made in the weeks prior to the race starting, during training. The Namolokama 60s team felt like they were in the best condition of their lives. Six of the men that made the team traveled the length of the island to train hard. They worked out the best position for each man and put in grueling hours on the water. They were coordinated and prepared and paddled their best race ever, coming in fourth. They were first in 2010 and third in 2011.

One of the strategies based on water conditions was whether to take a south or north course. Because of the south wind, they went the south course and in hindsight, the teams that went north won. The north route was calmer and the wind had not helped them going south. Proof of their own best race, they were only 38 minutes slower than last year despite the course. One further irony was that if they had entered as 55 year olds, they would have taken the bronze in that category. The 50s team also came in fourth on the same course.

Unofficial results were posted, Namo 60s guys finished at 6 hours 52 minutes, 4th

The 50s guys finished at 6 hours 47 minutes, 4th

The 55 Oahu team that took a bronze medal came in 6 hours 59 minutes

Hindsight !

THE DAY AFTER

While Gil and the team went to Molokai on Saturday, I went to Bishop Museum in Honolulu to do some research. The Library and Archives I had intended to visit were not open (even though I went during open hours according to the website). I spent many hours seeing the exhibits of the Hawaiian Hall.

Monday, the day following the race, Gil wanted to visit Bishop as well and we did but after a visit to the Honolulu Aquarium. I needed an underwater fix, it was close.

We hadn't seen guys this big since Midway

It is a spectacular aquarium, however I feel the loss at home due to private aquarium trade

Back to Bishop Museum, Ku dominates the floor

The pili grass "shack" behind him, was removed from Miloli'i on Kauai and reassembled here in the Hawaiian Hall

WATER AND FIRE ON KAUAI

Water & Fire on Kauai

The first of the big sets of surf arrived in September and from then on snorkeling is iffy. Each time out may be the last time for weeks. One Friday morning I went down to Hanalei to join the recreation paddle; there were 7 of us for a 6 man outrigger. I offered to take the one-man, someone else said they would trade out with me half way and that was perfect. Several hands held the boats while we jumped in and changed places.

The water seemed calm and pretty darn clear so I hustled home for lunch and went snorkeling. I was able to go outside of my little cove and around the corner where the turtles eat and live. The swell started to come up which just creates lots of bubbles when it hits the rocks and bounces back. There were over 30 turtles that afternoon. What a thrill to see one appear out of the bubbles, almost flying in slow motion.

Honu in his element

Along the cliffs of Princeville

All summer our little neighborhood gang has met at Blackpot beach in Hanalei for a potluck before dark and a fire pit after dark; a nice way to relax and visit after a long week. We had a visit from our local fire dancer. He had just received some new toys, colored poi balls (lit plastic balls) and some lights vertically strung on the hand held strap. We had a demonstration as he tried them all out. Several other people tried their hand as well. These are great for practice before playing with fire.

One person has two leashes with colored balls or lights at the end

the trick is keeping left and right coordinated and not get tangled or hit (practice for fire)

Poi balls on left, these change color

Strung lights on right - fun in motion

fire man, Jake Bernard, demos with real fire

everyone is mesmerized by fire, yeah?

HINANO HUNTING

Hinano Hunting on Kauai

Driving down to Hanalei, Gil noticed something white in the hala trees on the highway and asked if it was hinano (hee-nah-noh)? Sure enough it was blooming and the next day I went hunting.

The hala tree was very important in the Polynesian culture and the voyagers brought plant starts with them when they traveled. That was in addition to the prepared leaves stored in large wheel like bundles – essential to a voyaging canoe as the material used to make the sails.

Dried hala leaves were used to make mats, sails and containers

It is still commonly used today for mats (Hawaiian carpeting) and many other crafts. On the living trees we often see the fruit, sometimes confusing to tourists who think it could be a pineapple. This fruit is from the female pandanus, screwpine or hala tree.

Green hala fruit

Ripe hala fruit, each "key" looks like old fashioned candy corn about 3" long!

So what is this hinano I went hunting for? Not the Tahitian beer by the same name. There are male hala trees separate from the females above - they all look alike. We had heard that these male "flowers" (actually the bracts that hold pollen) were collected and plaited into very fine mats for royalty because they smelled so good.

The hunt was on. I got pictures of the ones by the highway but they were too high to smell. I remembered many hala along the path to my favorite snorkel beach and headed down (no snorkeling due to high surf). Sure enough, there were many beautiful male plants on display, again out of reach.

Hala looming below me, out of reach, out of range for my nose

All the way down the path and along the beach I finally found a male flower at eye level. Not wanting to disturb the process, I took 3-4 pieces of the bract and one chunk of the pollen. I got home feeling like a successful huntress with my game. It was in the kitchen for several days and the whole house was fragrant from it. Maybe only the royalty got to sleep under the fragrant mats but somebody made them and enjoyed the process, ever grateful for nature’s bounty.

HINANO

Just a few days later, all the bracts on the trees had browned, blending into the tree once more.

CAVE WORK ON KAUAI

Cave Work on Kauai
Do you like caves? I had a little private cave when I was a kid in Colorado, near the family cabin in the mountains. My brother and I lined the small cavity with moss and spent every waking minute going to it with candles and bits of homemaking. Quite hidden, we had to climb down into it from above, between large boulders – the first trip each summer with branches to clear out spider webs. Who knew fifty years later I would be making nice in a cave on Kauai?

The Makauwahi sinkhole is actually a large opening in ancient petrified sand dunes with two caves on the perimeter. We can look down from thirty feet above, or go around along a stream to find a small opening to crawl through. In the 80s, artifacts were found in the sinkhole and with much hard labor, it has turned out to be a source of fossils providing a time line for endemic birds and plants from the area, some long extinct. The caves themselves were later used by humans throughout time even including the hippie era and once even housed a witch’s coven.

Once pre-human data was known to be hidden in the sediment layers, it has turned into a treasure trove that David Burney calls a poor man’s time machine. In addition to understanding what Kauai may have looked like with endemic plants and birds going back over 10,000 years, the area is slowly being transformed into a venue for native plants. A huge banyan tree nearly filled the open space, dead and sprawling in the aftermath of a hurricane. Little by little, dead wood, invasive plants and weeds have been removed and native plants lovingly re-introduced according to pollen evidence from the cave. None of this info is new. (see blog entry February 2011)

However, now that I have joined Kauai Native Plant Society, I’ve had a great time on their adventures. So 26 of us gathered at the cave entrance on a Saturday morning. Plants were donated; wheelbarrows, cinder stone, compost and friendly plant foods arrived as well. It is a Hawaii tradition to chant permission to enter a site and also to ask for guidance with a project. They asked if anyone would do such a chant and I finally offered one. I only remember E Ho Mai from my oli class but it has served me well. I have heard it done at memorial services, house blessings, and entry to sacred valleys. I don’t have a nice voice, I certainly don’t possess the deep resonance to do it justice – I just think it is important to bring in the tradition and trust that my flaws were corrected on another level. Thanks to Aunty Edith Kanaka’ole for writing it and to Kehaulani Kekua for teaching it.

It is repeated three times.

E ho mai ka ‘ike mai luna mai e

O na mea huna no eau, o na mele e

E ho mai, e ho mai, e ho mai e

Outside the cave along Waiopili Stream that comes out at Maha'ulapu Beach, Poipu

David Burney, cave man on left and Keren Gunderson of KNPS center

volunteers on right

More volunteers, Lida Pigott Burney all lit up

The cave entrance is gated when not open to the public or workers

Open, as above, crawling through is required. It is just about right for a wheelbarrow.

So it was time to work. We formed and chain and passed the plants into the cave. Then came the wheelbarrows – one pushing and one pulling until they were free of the overhang. Once able to stand up again, you find yourself in a large cave and you can see the bright opening to the sky. One hill had naupaka growing tall just outside the cave itself. It blocked the view and therefore the impact of what the enclosed space. Even though naupaka is native, it was cut down. One large tree remained to provide shade and scale and the roots of the naupaka. Most of us weeded throughout and strategies were set for the planting sequence while the last of the roots were removed and taken to the designated green waste site outside the cave.

Inside: North Cave and entry at right

Digging out remainder of naupaka roots

Cleared and smooth, the lava rock perimeter has begun

Everyone listens up for the planting strategy

The plants were placed where they were to be dug in. We grabbed shovels and dug holes three times the size of the pot and placed fertilizer into the sides of the holes. Compost was added around each one.

The compost rich and ready

When original excavations were done at the sinkhole, three piles had been made made: rocks, sand, dirt. I helped load rubble from the rock pile into wheelbarrows either for use in the edge here or destined to be removed from the site altogether. Our main project was replanting what had been the dirt pile above. More plants than were needed were used in other areas. The sand hill received new green guys.

News to me you could grow anything in a sand pile, these guys know what they are doing

Sides of the open space were weeded and new drought resistant climbing plants added. I weeded a rock garden near the entrance to the South Cave but we did not re-plant it today. Perhaps those green guys will come from the project's own native plant nursery.

Rock garden ready to be planted,

Single Alula doing well (nearly extinct in the wild)

While they were installing the drip system and adding mulch to our newly planted mound, a few of us took the opportunity to visit Burney’s latest innovation. Since there were large flightless birds (now extinct) on the island that were ground grazers (some even developed a turtle-jaw for grazing) he has brought in land tortoises to help weed the extensive native plant nursery on the property. I was skeptical about the introduction of non-native critters until I learned they were living here because people had abandoned them as pets when they tired of them. These are rescue animals then, given a job.

By far the largest of the eight tortoises, this African spurred variety is a little sleepy here, siesta time in the heat of the day

Clearly a realtive of the sea turtles I swim with all summer, he has the same gentle demeanor and deep ancestry in his eyes

About a third of the size of the one above,

this leopard tortoise is also catching some shade in his patch of the garden
(the raised bumps likely indicate he was malnourished while growing)

Back in the cave, everyone agreed so many hands had made the work easy. We were done by lunchtime! The Burneys (David and his wife Lida) might be used to having whole classrooms of students to do projects but this was the largest single turnout for Kauai Native Plant Society. These three photos were lifted from the KNPS website – mahalo!

BEFORE