MIDWAY PLANNING NOVEMBER 2011 First step - Struggle

map courtesy of NOAA

Kauai to Midway is 1200 miles northwest
The section outlined is the Papahanaumokuakea Marine National Monument
(pa-pa-HAW-now-moh-koo-A-kay-ah)
The Struggle
     So we were waitlisted for 2010 (see Mahalo Laura above), no one cancelled, we were home for the holiday.  This year we submitted our name right away.  Once we were on the list I figured it was my job to gather what we might need for the work.  It can be rainy, it is winter and there is a lot of scrub from downed trees and tall nau paka. They suggested a long sleeve shirt over a T shirt, long pants, shoes and a change of socks in the field and to bring a pack to carry water and spare paint cans.  Being covered keeps the skin intact but bring blister care and bandages, too.  Apparently all the work clothes gets bright orange or fuscia paint on them, so pack accordingly.   But there is a Christmas party so dress up and bring a present!
     And, oh by the way you need a valid passport for Midway Atoll.  It is considered a US Territory and is not part of the State of Hawaii, surprise to us and most people I have mentioned it to.  By now we had to expedite the passport renewal request.  The post office here was no help.  It was with much angst for about a week that we managed to get it sent in with online forms and photos, ugh! from Costco.  Then we held our breath.  Money speaks - expedite charges, express mail both ways, and the passport fee has really gone up.  This is my fourth passport - I never had such a hassle with it before.   
    Now, call me very naive but I imagined a small plane to be somewhat like interisland planes here or like we flew in the Bahamas, seeing the islands passing below us.  I have been so excited about seeing the island chain as we travelled out almost to the end.  I also imagined that a small plane would stop for us in Kauai.  Well my imagination and reality were not aligned on this one.  The flight is out of Honolulu and they fly high, and they fly at night.  This is for the sake of the birds, of course, it makes perfect sense yet I felt a real pang that I would not have that visual of the other islands in my personal data bank.  Now I had to book flight to Oahu and back.  And since we return in the middle of the night, we need a hotel room too.  Good news, new passports have arrived, we got medical evacuation insurance and accident insurance lined up and now we we can return to gathering gear.

     The objective is to work in assigned sectors and mark each nest with paint.  It is estimated each volunteer will click their paint gun 30,000 times in the three weeks.  We are taking gloves and tape to wrap our trigger finger.  Since Midway is north of us, it is colder and the water is colder as well.  Hosting volunteers year-round, they refuge has plenty of wet suits for us if we get the chance to go in.  We will take our own masks since they have built in cameras.

                                                                         courtesy of FWS

     Midway atoll is made up of three tiny islands and a huge lagoon surrounded with reef.  This is Sand Island in front, Eastern Island in back and Spit Island is very small in between.

For a really comprehensive view of the islands and a sense of the history check out the Fish & Wildlife Service (FWS) site and really maneuver around there:

Big Island in September 2011

  We returned to the Big Island in September for Gil's 6-man outrigger canoe race.  The Queen Liliuokalani or Kona race is held each year over Labor Day weekend and entries come from all islands,the mainland and other countries.  Gil's 60s team won gold again this year, beating the Australians by seconds - good job Namolokama guys!  We attended the awards ceremony then later walked in the torch parade. 
 
King Kamehameha Hotel hosted the 40th annual Queen Liliuokalani canoe race.


The torch parade through Kona, Gil has his 2nd Gold Medal


  Next day we snorkeled next to the outrageously beautiful Pu'uhonua Honaunau refuge before heading back up to Volcano.  From Jaggar museum we got to see the after dark glow of lava from the crater this time as it is in its ever changing flux.  While in Volcano we also got to visit the conservation institute that has the only remaining native Hawaiian ravens.  They hope to release them back to the wild next year. 


The lava in Halema'uma'u Crater (within the Kilauea caldera) is in huge flux this year, rising an falling dynamically. 


We snorkeled some more and Sharon was able to take the test as a reef surveyor with REEF.org on the way back to the airport.  Grateful for the privilege of being so close to nature, it was a good trip and helped us resolve further that being stewards of the land and water are what we are about.

Yellow tangs which we don't have on Kauai and orange band surgeon fish.  Near Hookena Beach Park.





Another good buddy, the honu






  

Voyaging Canoes in Hanalei Bay - July 2011

Eight voyaging canoes sailed into Hanalei Bay as part of their world tour.  They are traveling without modern navigation equipment and making a documentary to bring awareness to all that the ocean is precious.  They were here for nearly a week before heading to San Francisco.  We were able to board and visit with captains and crew.  They were met by surfers, stand up paddlers, swimmers, small sail boats and many outriggers.  Aloha ceremonies coming and going were heartfelt with drums and chants that filled everyone with a sense of closeness that extends across the wide oceans.

Partial sails coming into Hanalei Bay




Detail of voyaging canoe from the Cook Islands, first made of the fleet, heavier, slower, and more stable in rough water, able to plow through the waves.



Gil and Sharon paddled out to greet with canoe club, so exciting.



The craft from Tonga took a boat load of folks out to the Na Pali while here.



Detail includes dramatic design, carved steering paddle and solar panels above used only to power small ceramic propeller for entry and exit of harbors that do not allow sail power.

March trip to Volcano

   As a birthday gift to each other (Sharon/Feb, Gil/April), we went to the Big Island in March to check out the lava flow; Pele did not cooperate.  It stopped running down the mountain about a week before we went so we canceled the dawn boat trip.  The glow in Kilauea crater visible from Jaggar museum stopped the night before.  Daytime steam was all that was visible and we had a great hike with ranger, Dean Gallagher (see photo). 
   That night we were up all night as people called us to make sure we were safe from the tsunami headed our way from Japan.  The entire trip was about that - damage from the ten foot surge on Kona coast, news reports and worldwide shock and sadness over the devastation.

photo taken by Dean Gallagher

Hike along the Kilauea Caldera rim with Halema'uma'u Crater venting behind us. 
Volcano National Park.