2018 TAHITI


TAHITI 
VA’A WORLD SPRINTS 2018

                With ten months anticipation and meeting logistical demands to be a participant, Gil and his 70s team worked hard to be on Team Hawaii.  Hawaii ladies also had a 70s team which is quite a statement and both men and women in the 60s category traveled to the ancient cultural land.  Tahiti dominated, as expected, 62 medals of 125 given.


                But getting ahead of myself, the entire Tahiti experience was rich and varied.  Christian Marstan (owner of the famous Tahiti Nui bar in Hanalei) and his Tahitian wife Vera were on hand for the arrival of the team with leis at the airport.  The Heiva annual Tahitian dance competitions had completed earlier in the evening and while we were crazy tired from traveling, we were in for a treat with several troupes performing for us.  Much to their chagrin, the men were asked to join in before letting us go to our hotel.


                The hotel for the next two weeks was 600 meters down the beach from the race venue, all in Pirae, a small town next to Papeete (the largest city in French Polynesia). 

Gil at breakfast, black sand beach 


Somebody going for a trial run in a viper sailing canoe. On the athletic grounds, flags from island nations were beautiful when the breeze unfurled them,

Just a sample:  side street, morning rainbow, mangoes at sunset, lotus we watched from bud to open below our room, heart in black sand, sunset

Tech, we had one plug adapter with a multi strip and multi charger, worked out great!  With local SIM cards, we could call and/or text; BUT, we could no longer move photos from phones to anything or anyone so here we are 3 weeks later.  C’est la vie.

OPENING CEREMONIES
                While we had been to World Masters in New Zealand last year, that race is all over 40s.  This was sprints only for every age group and it was fun to mix it up and talk to kids under 19 as well as the young bucks from NZ and Australia, other tiny islands, etc.  When the march began from the Town Hall to the stadium, we were confused by the alphabetical line up until we realized, in French of course, that the island groups all started with “Iles” including Iles Hawaii.  So, Ile Neuveau Caledonia, Ile Cook, etc.  What fun.
City hall 

                During the march, the heavens opened and we had a Kauai style drenching.  It must have dumped 6” on us in an hour.  The seats for us at the stadium had no cover, we tipped the standing water out to sit – it didn’t matter – we were already soaked to the bone.  Then it stopped and the show began.
The guys were more than happy with this

The ladies were more than happy with this as well

The Marquessan warriors were phenomenal, again, we had seen them at the airport
(sorry, still a little water on the lens)

Over the next two weeks we did lots of walking.  Plants and weather were very familiar (wind, calm, rain, sun).  While we had a lovely buffet breakfast at the hotel each morning (tropical fruit, cold cuts, baguettes, croissants, French Polynesia after all), our all-inclusive lunch and dinner were at a local high school cafeteria (many of the paddlers were staying in the dorm rooms there).  Fresh salad, baguettes and either fish or some variation of beef stew, even a turkey dinner one night. 

Cafeteria – to open in five minutes

From the doorway to our room

From our balcony

Lotus and eels

Lobby canoe – va’a (canoe) is a way of life here, year round

Lovely pool – not heated, very refreshing

Tahiti Graffiti



This was across from our bus stop (and the ATM) so we saw it often.  The others were near the school where the cafeteria was.  They were such a pleasure to see.



 



During the first few days everyone had strict slots to practice in the unfamiliar boats.  V1, V6 with turns and without, the turns being very difficult with sharp bottoms rather than the rounded Hawaiian style.  Deceivingly calm most mornings with wind picking up during the day, some days were windy and choppy from the start and the lane assignments really made a difference in the conditions.

Gil V1 practice
               
While the men had their V6 practice, Jill and I went into Papeete centre to the famous Marche.  We got headgear, she bought a dress and I bought a black pearl pendant.  Good lunch and bus back to the hotel.

Sharon at le marche (the market)

Papeete market 

Fluid pearl shop

Jill lunch - We both the fab poisson cru and hers came with sweet potato mash and taro fries

CULTURAL TAHITI
                Between practices and meetings we had time for several excursions.  We went to the beautiful Musee de Tahiti et des Iles down the coast.  It was 6-8 blocks from the bus stop but what a terrific location with Moorea just about 12 miles across the way.

What an exciting spot even before we went into the building – little did we know we’d be snorkeling from a boat out there in just a few days.

4840 Polynesian Triangle with Iles Hawaii at top, Nouvelle Zelande at west, and Ile de Paques (Easter Island) at eastern point

One of the signifiers of Polynesian expansion were the styles of poi pounders

Clockwise: a tattoo chart, distinct hala ceiling lashings we saw throughout our visit, a finely woven manta ray fan, a dolphin tooth necklace

The coral display was quite beautiful although a nearby fish chart had some really funny English translations  .

                We had a nice lunch at a French restaurant before waiting a LONG time in the sun for the bus to come (no schedule we could find).  We did happen on an Aikido dojo near the restaurant, Aiki Kai Tahiti.  Too funny (see June post about Aikido).



THE BLESSING
                While the opening ceremonies had been on Sunday, the blessing actually started the races on Thursday at 7am.  It was a tight schedule with several heats per category and age group, over the next eight days.  V1, V6 straight 500 meters or with 1 turn, 1000 meters with 3 turns, and V12, all sprints.

The drumming reaches your bones

Blessing in Tahitian (of course)

Spectators

GO

                At the venue there were vendors and exhibits, dance videos and good food.  There was a large screen TV where aerial views of the races were easier to see than from the bleachers, but the bleachers were very nice.  All the guests had been given little packs with a mat, a pillow, a pareo and soap!  This allowed nice rest time in the athletes’ tent. 

Light weight Tahitian quilt

Paddle history, canoe positions

Tahitian vanilla (lower bins are covered with glass)

SNORKELING TAHITI

                We had read about two spots for good snorkeling, the Aquarium and the Spring.  Free days, we did one on Friday and one on Saturday.  As mentioned, the marina we went out of wasn’t far from the Tahiti museum.  I tried to photo fish we don’t see at home. 

Marina Taina

Mike McHenry went with Gil and I and he was first in the water.

I had a blast looking up the fish I didn't know.  What I couldn't find on Keoki Stender's website, I emailed him pics to help me ID.  Got 'em all!

Lemon Peel Angelfish

Tridacna clam

Coral gardens

Bluegreen damsels (that are yellow in different light!)

A Checkerboard Wrasse

Lined surgeonfish

Some people got excited about the plane, I turned around and went back to the coral

Nudi branchs, three different ones!

Gil with Moorea in background

                The second snorkel day we went to the outer reef and were dropped in a big swell and drifted, fast.  This was to see the sharks and we did, many black-tip reef sharks, about 30 feet down.  Other than the three of us, there was a newlywed couple from Denmark, not at all sure they wanted to swim with sharks!  When I finally headed back to the boat, there was one considerably larger than the black tips.  Turns out Mike saw him too but we couldn’t ID him.  So, for future reference, I learned that lemon sharks have two dorsal fins to look for but  . . .

Black tip shark, hard to believe how healthy the coral is here

Green sea turtle, it’s not that we don’t swim with these guys all the time, it’s that the water is so different – felt like being in outer space following him

Hawksbill turtle resting in the coral below, my first

                We went to another location to swim with dolphins, we saw them but they left – spinners like at home. 

It is hard to describe the water.  It seems like you cannot see anything but in fact, it is as clear as blue glass.

Gil and Mike, is that clear or what?

Final spot was the Spring where fresh water comes up through lava tubes and mixes with the salt water (much like at Two-Step in Kona). 

The valley whose river created the gap in the reef over centuries.  We heard the legends of Puna’auia, a couple versions of the big monster being killed.  Really fun stuff.  We were directly in front of the Tahiti museum here. 

Reticulated butterflyfish  We see these off Kona but they are super rare on Kauai

Long nose, we do have these as well, not common but always fun to spot

This really shows the absolute clarity of the water, the healthy coral, and this cool wrasse with the pink and green nose (Six Bar Wrasse)

THE RACES
                OK, back to business.  Sunday morning unfortunately, was very windy.  Gil’s V1 race was at 8:51am and fighting the wind in the furthest lane, No. 7, he bumped a buoy early on that DQ’d him but he finished the race.   The silver winner was a friend from Maui that he usually paddles neck and neck with.  Heartbreak.

Gil heading to start line for V1

                For some reason, the races ran late, by about 45 minutes.  The V12 was made up of Namolokama Kauai guys and Anuenue Oahu guys. 

Steve, John, Gil, Baker, David, 5 of 12 guys – just Nick missing from Namolokama team, Gil stroked

Nick Beck and Nappy Napolean from Anuenue, both close to 80 years old and major legends in paddling

They got Gold!  Made the day better, bittersweet literally.  I watched the big screen as the aerial was more revealing than watching from sideline.

12 man

12 man finish - two second win margin

Some happy boys

I loved this T shirt, pretty much says it all

Gold collage

                The stage behind the podium offered one of the most delightful performances of the entire event.  A young girl (we all guessed about 12 years old) gave a Tahitian chant that was unbelievably powerful.  She was strong, her voice forceful, as she paced back and forth with hand motions that matched the story.  We were all awed by it.  The big screen next to her gave the written chant in both French and English.  What a finish to a remarkable day in Tahiti.

Fab performer

Chant on screen

V6 RACE
                Monday Namolokama came in third of their V6 heat which meant they did not automatically advance to the finals.  It required a repechage or play-off to determine who went to finals.  Tuesday they qualified for the finals but on Wednesday they did not place.  Shoots!

                Tuesday afternoon, we went for a drive with John and Nancy from Maui who had rented a car.  Tahiti is very tiny, comprised of Tahiti Nui (big) and Tahiti Iti (little) which is really, really tiny.  Thirty some miles the entire length, there is a perimeter road that is easy to travel in a figure eight.  

We took the clockwise route, deviating at the neck to visit the famous surf beach on Iti, called Teahupo’o, (usually pronounced Cho-po).  Then we backtracked and returned to Pirae through the city.

Interior from a little bridge

Ocean side of same bridge - breath taking scenery

Gil and John – Tahiti Iti in background

Nancy and Sharon with the boys

Island is very different away from the city

Teahupo’o soccer

Sleepy little spot until the big surf contests starting next month

In the upper right find the wooden structure being built – this will be for the surf judges!

                On the return, still on Tahiti Iti, we found a restaurant that had been recommended and when John and Nancy had driven by there before it was closed.  It was open for us and the only other people in there were our 60s guys!  Yummy seafood.

Le Plage de Maui (Maui Beach)


 

Moray eel– this big guy was waiting for a handout from the kitchen, shrimp heads.  He had competition from the terns that swooped in for them too.

Wednesday
                Unfortunately, after the V6 Turn final I felt hot and returned to the room.  I had violent fever and retching for the next 24 hours and wanted to get on the next plane home.  (Flights to and from Hawaii are Saturday only.)  Gil went along with three other couples as Jill had booked a tour to the interior (I was so glad to just sleep).  They found waterfalls, a swimming hole, saw the remains of the crater that formed the island. 




Their sweet guide and the “safari” truck they travelled in

Thursday
Gil and two others from his team were already feeling the body aches and respiratory symptoms coming on.  I slept through their straight V6 race where they had made it to finals (no small thing on the world scale) but, again, they did not place.  He picked me up some paracetamol and cough meds and I was finally able to pack, my embarrassingly big feat.  Neither of us made it to dinner or the Closing Ceremony.  Too bad as this is where all the athletes trade shirts, souvenirs they cherish from their rivals and new friends.  
We watched this tiki and his va’a being carved the entire two weeks.  He was completed by the closing ceremony.  Gil caught him in his rightful place on his way back from the pharmacy.




 

MOOREA ON FRIDAY
                Our sponsors got us to the ferry terminal and we took the 30 minute ride across the channel to beautiful, sleepy Moorea. 

Ia Orana Moorea! – we had been seeing it at a distance (short distance) for two weeks


Nana Tahiti

                Someone here told us it would feel like going from Oahu to Molokai.  We did a little shopping and found our bungalow at Fare Manureva on the west side.  Charming, well equipped kitchen, nice lanai for dining, etc.  The owner gave us an overview of the island (you can drive all the way around in an hour).  I must admit I had a hard time focusing and was glad to just lie down. 

Moorea map with our two locations

                Saturday we made it to the doctor and pharmacy in Hauru and took a bit of a drive after to get our bearings.  French Polynesia is everything we love about Hawaii: mountains, warm ocean, and green.  Plus very sweet people.  While in Tahiti we heard about half Tahtian language and half French; on Moorea, mostly French.  But everyone switched to English, as best they could.  It was always better than my French.  I could make out signs, posters, menus etc. but was hopeless in conversation.


                By Sunday we felt good enough to drive to Belvedere and see the amazing view of the two bays.  The big archeological site being restored came first and while we didn’t have the energy to tackle the wonderful hikes available in Opunohu Valley, we got a feel of the past and the respect of the present peoples for their land and history.  
                From 1250 ad until European invasion in 1767, this spot has reclaimed “63 house sites, 145 temples and shrines, and thousands of agricultural sites.”  What is a heiau in Hawaiian is a marae in most of Polynesia.

Marae

Creation of plants

Le Belvedere  From this point both bays are visible with Mt. Rotu’i (899 meters) in between
Cook’s Bay on right (even though he landed in the other bay) and Opunohu Bay on left.  

We had a pique-nique with us at this tranquil spot, a few horses one way and cows the other

Gil stopped the car so I could catch this monument lit by the sun, we were pretty low energy but thoroughly enjoyed the awesome scenery.

                We stopped in at the Sofitel, one of the hoity toity hotels with their obligatory over water bungalows. 
Water looks fake

                On the high side, Sofitel also has a turtle rehabilitation set up.  Injured turtles are sent to them from all the islands and if they recover, they are released.  If they are too damaged to fend for themselves, they remain for life.


Little turtles - we didn't get their story but if they were in this part of the tank they were soon to be released

                We visited the adjacent public beach and found it charming.  Too bad we didn’t feel better – this was supposed to be good snorkeling and easy to get to the edge of the reef.

Temae Beach

Gil checking out the canoes

He loved these racks in the water

Someone’s back yard!

                Nearly back to our place I spotted the Octopus church!  I had wanted to attend a church service at some point as the folks wear white, lots of flowers and it is primarily singing – it didn’t happen.  But, I had read about this site where the missionaries did what they do – built their church on top of a local shrine.  This shrine was meant to revere the octopus, important to the culture.  Poignantly, the missionaries built it eight sided.  It is beautiful though mid-afternoon, no services were being held.


                We forced ourselves to muster the energy to get in the water here.  We walked just across the street.  It was quite wonderful.

Beach from water

Crested Tern

Landscape

Coral

More coral

Vagabond butterflyfish

Humbug dascyllus - just adorable, behavior just like our Hawaiian dascyllus - defense!

                Once we were eating again we did a little cooking and laundry.  The grounds were nice, I picked a few herbs for our food; fruit was growing but what intrigued us was the garden borders made of large shells. The neighbor had a ylang ylang tree.

It took forever to dry!  No wonder I was wheezing, so damp

Papaya, banana, rosemary, basil, ginger, lemongrass, etc. around our cottage

Shell borders, conchs and clams

                We were finally up to eating at the pizza place owned by the cousin of an acquaintance here.  I should have taken a picture of the menu.  Fabulous – ours had fresh tomatoes instead of tomato sauce.

Allo Pizza

                We discovered before leaving for our next reservation that our hosts at Manureva hand make pareos.  She paints the fabric and he sews. 

Our cottage was on the left, through the window

Francoise

                Time to move to Maharepa and our bungalow at Poerani.  This was the nicest of all the places we had stayed.  Two Frenchmen gave up corporate life in Paris and bought this property and renovated the villa and three cottages.  It was a great place to relax – nice comfy bed, the lanai or chaises at the water where we watched the squawking crested terns, or dusk brown noddies, or just the stars at night.

Tiki at our lanai

More laundry on our lanai

5059 We thought this little kitty came with the unit, adorable little guy, big guy too
Apparently there had been a coconut tree where the table is but they roofed it and the gutters ran around the edge of the kitchen – fun when it rained

Loved the leaf sticking up between the wall and roof, and the shell light

The dark wood shower and aqua colors were gorgeous


WHALE SEASON
                Theoretically it had started but we didn’t know if any had actually shown up yet.  We did want to go by boat out past the little islets, or motus off the NW corner of the island.  So we had an adventure of rain, rays, sharks, and whales.

Black tip reef sharks in the lagoon where we stopped first


A sting ray in background with two good sized ulua in foreground; the tuna were gorgeous, like looking into a sparkly night sky

 
These ringtail surgeonfish weren't in the least threatened by the shark

Back in the boat, we headed out past the reef.  There were squalls all around us and we knew we'd be hit sooner or later.


So cool. mom and calf, first of the season and they were around us the rest of the time out there, along with another adult escort.

Too bad about my lens, these many, many birds must have found a fish ball - they were sooo active

I was sure I caught the whale calf breach, damn!  I can still see it now.

Really not in any way disappointed with 4-5 hours of ocean, those are the motus.


Back at the dock I jumped back in the water to get these anemones.  Mostly I have video but it doesn't stay live on the blog forever so I stick with stills.  Just pink blobs until they open up and turn inside out. Another first for me.



So our digs at Poerani were right on the water and a couple days later managed to swim out along the channel there as well.  I found I could cough easily through a snorkel!

. 

Poerani from the water

Penant Bannerfish

Spawning parrotfish everywhere we went

Juvenile Pacific Surge Damselfish

Sunset with Brown Noddies

BACK TO TAHITI
                 We cleaned up our snorkel gear and it fit neatly in the long plastic bags meant for baguettes.  Off to the marina, turn in the car and head back to Papeete, staying in the city this time.  Still no cars available there, we walked down from our pristine set up (bare room with full shared kitchen and lounge). 
We walked through the beautiful park, visited the Marche again and hung out in our “lounge” before going back out for a final meal at the roulottes (many food trucks) set up every evening at the marina. 


Loved this carved "fish ball," it didn't occur to me to buy it!  Not operating on all cylinders

Lounging

This was a huge canoe club judging by the number of boats, a fraction in this picture

The Roulottes at the marina, many food trucks cooking quick delicious food.  We had grilled 
marlin with green beans (in lots of butter).
But then we saw the Creperie truck and had nutella crepes with coconut ice cream.  Who needed the lousy sandwich Hawaiian Airlines served on board!


             Our flight was as 11:30 pm, dreadful hour to fly plus it was delayed.  We did find friends at the airport that had had their own adventures in the islands.  

To finish off the trip, the club had a potluck scheduled – they waited for those of us that returned a week later.  Of the three World Sprint Gold Medals earned by Hawaiian teams, our men's 70s and our women's 70s – brought home two.  Congratulations Namolokama!

Evening on Hanalei Bay, not a bad place to return to


AND WITH THAT, DONNELLY OCEANTICS IS 
OFFICIALLY CLOSED
THANK YOU FOR SIX YEARS OF FOLLOWING OUR ADVENTURES
ALOHA
A HUI HUO